Turtles and Old Friends on Bai Ma Shan

One day at the temple, there were a few new arrivals. Nineteen turtles of varying sizes were given to Li Shifu by one of his friends. The turtles had been washed and given good food to prepare them for winter hibernation. Now they ‘live’ in the main temple where they rest and sleep until spring comes.

Looking at the turtles, one can see a correlation between the shells’ rings and Daoist numerology. The outer rings usually contain 24 segments. These correlate to the 24 solar terms which a year divides into. As I write this,  it is the end of November and Xiao Xue (Lesser Snow) is about to arrive. At this time, Heaven’s energy ascends and Earth’s energy descends. This process leads to a separation of Yin and Yang which, in turn, leads to a reduction of vital energies and the beginning of winter.

Depending on how one looks at the shell, the middle ring is made of either ten or eight segments. The number ten reflects the ten directions, the number eight points to the eight trigrams. If one counts the middle ring as ten segments, the inner ring is comprised of three segments. The number three points to the unification of Heaven, Earth and Man. This unification is the main goal of practice and points to the Daoist belief that all things are deeply interconnected; as above so below and vice versa. If one counts the middle ring as eight segments, the inner ring would consist of five segments. The number five points to the five phases: wood; fire; earth; metal; and water. The five phases are fundamental to Daoist Medicine. Being able to identify and regulate diseases using Five Phases Theory is a practical method which one can use without needing to be a doctor. This content is part of the Daoist Medicine course taught by Li Shifu at the Five Immortals Temple.

In Daoism, turtles are of particular symbolic importance. They are one of the most esteemed animals particularly because of their longevity (one of the turtles brought to the temple is already thirty years old). It is because of their long life that some Daoist lineages created Daoyin exercises which seek to imitate the movements of turtles. In Dao Yin, the practitioner combines breath, movement, and intention to gather Qi from Heaven and Earth and circulate it around his or her body. These exercises are suitable and beneficial for a wide variety of people and the longer one practices, the greater the benefits. To achieve the best results, it is recommended to exercise daily,  preferably in the morning when the sun rises. At this time, Yang Qi can be collected, transformed, and utilised. Personally, I have experienced physical, mental, and spiritual benefits from these exercises, and it seems that entering into a closer relationship with one’s body,  mind, and higher self is a major step in the process of maintaining balance, good health, and setting a foundation for further cultivation.

Another link between Daoism and turtles involves Xuanwu. Martial artist, immortal, guardian of the north,  he is especially revered in the Wu Dang mountains, the place where he is said to have attained immortality. Because a black turtle entwined with a snake is the symbol of the North in Chinese astronomy, Xuanwu is often depicted with a turtle and snake.

Bai Ma Shan is connected to Xuanwu, as well as turtles, in a special way. according to legend, Xuanwu found Bai Ma Shan whilst looking for a place to dedicate himself to cultivation. Riding on a white horse, he saw the mountain and its peak ascending into the sky, surrounded by moving white clouds which reminded him of wild horses galloping across the sky. After having witnessed this beautiful and touching natural phenomenon, Xuanwu decided to stay there. While walking up the mountain, Xuanwu stepped on a large stone, and it became loose.  This stone had been used to suppress a centuries-old demon turtle, but once it realised it was free, the demon tried to escape. However, before it could get away, Xuanwu pinned it to the ground with one foot and told the demon that it must stay there to guard the Tian Men (Heavenly Gate). Having heard these words, the turtle immediately stretched out its long neck, lay down in front of Tian Men, and turned into a large stone. This stone can still be seen on the walk up to the temple today, and is called Shou Men Shou, or ‘Gate Guarding Beast’.

The rest of Xuanwu’s story goes that, as he continued his cultivation on Bai Ma Shan, his body gained so much weight that the mountain could no longer support it – and crashed down. The falling rocks from the mountain formed Luan Shi Jiao (Chaos Stone Cellar), while the cracked and crooked ‘saddle’ of the mountain remains. At this point, Xuanwu moved to Jin Ding (Golden Summit); a higher mountain in Wu Dang.  It was at Jin Ding that he eventually attained immortality.

Much later, The Five Immortals came to Bai Ma Shan. They decided to study the Dao, cultivate themselves, and help others. After seeing their efforts, Xuanwu was deeply moved and offered them his assistance. In thanks for the work done for the sake of others, locals built the Five Immortals Temple on Bai Ma Shan as a place to worship and pay their respects.

Bai Ma Shan is full of landmarks which point to its history as a place of cultivation. Whilst studying at the Five Immortals Temple, we can perhaps count on not only Li Shifu’s guidance, but also the formless aid of the Five Immortals and even Xuanwu himself. Through cultivating a sincere heart, and exerting oneself to the best of one’s ability, it is said that the help of teachers, both with and without form, will support the practitioner in their journey back to the Dao.